May 14, 2024
Buenos Aires | A Complete City Guide
Buenos Aires is the cosmopolitan city in South America, a mixture of the cobblestone streets of Paris and the liveliness of Latin America. It’s rich in culture and history and there is always something going on. After living in Buenos Aires for two months, this city completely stole my heart. You can easily spend an entire month here and still feel like you have so much more to see and do.
This city guide covers all the essential things you need to know about the city, which neighborhoods to visit and what to eat, as well as how to get around and stay safe.
In This Guide
History
Logistics – Airport, Visa, Money, Costs, Phone and Data Service
Weather
Transportation
Safety
Top Neighborhoods Overview
Popular Attractions and Experiences
Food and Eating
History
Buenos Aires, sitting along the banks of the Río de la Plata, ‘the River Plate’, serves as the gateway to rest of Argentina. Often deemed as the ‘Paris of South America’, Buenos Aires has both the charm of an old European city and vivaciousness of Latin America. The locals refer to themselves as portenos, ‘people of the port’, since their heritage is deeply tied to the influx of heavy European immigration, especially from Spain and Italy in the 19th century.
Local passions run deep, oftentimes coming in a contradictory manner. This city is a booklover’s paradise (boosting the most bookshops per capita in the world), yet a hedonist’s playground, wine is abundant and clubbing starts no earlier than 1AM. Tango is embedded into the culture just as much as futball. The gastronomy experience is one to experience – asado, mate, choripan just to name a few. A city of contrasts, Argentina’s capital magnetism draws in everyone who takes time to explore it.
Logistics
Airport | Arriving in Buenos Aires
If you are travelling from the US or most other international cities, you will be flying into Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). EZE is Argentina’s major international airport and located about a 45-minute car ride from the city center.
Aeroparque Internacional Jorge Newbery (AEP) is another airport that is strategically located directly within the city. Although it has some international flights (typically to Santiago, Chile or several cities in Brazil), AEP primarily is the hub for domestic travel.
Visa | Getting into the Country
US citizens are permitted into the country for 90 days without a visa. Check the US State Department site for the latest information on visa requirements. Before you travel, check your country’s guidelines to confirm if you need a visa to get into Argentina. Argentina’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs website also has guidelines and requirements.
Money | Conversation Rates and Getting Money
The official currency of Argentina is the Argentine Peso (ARS). Inflation, especially now (as of May 2024), is and has been a problem for the past several years. In 2021, the inflation rate reached the highest in the world at 50.1%. The unofficial exchange rate is known as the blue dollar rate, which is more than the official exchange rate, allowing tourists to get a ‘bang for their buck’. For example, as of May 2024, the official exchange rate is USD 1 = ARS 880~, however, the current blue dollar exchange rate is USD 1 = ARS 1100.
The rate changes daily. Go to the Buenos Aires Herald to learn about the different exchange rates in Buenos Aires.
Credit or Debit Card | Many cafes and restaurants, bigger grocery or convenient chains, and touristic places accept credit (VISA and Mastercard) and debit card. Some more local cafes or stalls at mercados will only accept cash. I had no issues using my Visa credit card in Buenos Aires.
Cash | Cash is still regarded king in Buenos Aires. Local Frutas y Verduras stores only accept cash. Many stores will give you a 10-20% discount if you pay with cash. I always have cash with me just in case.
How to Get Cash
Getting cash was one of the first things I did when I got to Buenos Aires because I knew that I wanted to shop at local mercados.
Western Union | My recommendation is to use Western Union as your channel to exchange money and/or get ARS. Western Union has a better rate than the official rate and is more secure especially for a tourist. There are many Western Union stores located throughout the city. Lines can get pretty long and different stores have different operating hours, but I’ve never had trouble getting money from Western Union.
Local Tip: When you use your credit card, you will be using the bank rate, which is similar to the official rate. You only get a ‘bang for your buck’ when you use cash if you received ARS using the blue dollar rate.
Costs | An Idea of What I Spend
There are some items in Buenos Aires that are not expensive (as compared to the US), but other things that cost much more. Below I highlight some estimates of how much I spend on general items:
- Cup of Coffee: ARS 2000 – 4000 (or approximately ~USD 2.5-4.5)
- Latte at Starbucks: ARS 3500 (or approximately ~USD 4)
- Main Course for Dinner at a $$ Restaurant: ARS 8,000 – 15,000 (or approximately ~USD 9-17)
- Half Gallon of Milk: ARS XX (or approximately ~USD 1.5)
- 1 Avocado: ARS 600 (or approximately ~USD 0.65)
- One time purchase of Sube Card: ARS 2000 (or approximately ~USD 2)
Phone and Data Service | Connecting Yourself to the World
In this day in age, being connected is important, especially for a female solo travelling/living in another country. Generally speaking, I’ve always had service throughout my stay in Buenos Aires. Many cafes, museums, and tourist buildings have free WiFi that works pretty good. Also, all the Airbnb’s I rented from had decent WiFi.
Get an International Phone Plan | I admit that I ended up spending a little bit more and getting an international phone plan from Verizon and was connected to Movistar or Claro for my entire time in Argentina (even when traveling to El Calafate and Salta). My service worked perfectly well. I had LTE about 75% of the time and 3G the other percentage.
Local SIM Card | Local SIM cards are cheap and easy to acquire. Go to a local Movistar or Claro store and request for a prepaid monthly travel SIM card. There is a store in the airport as well if you want to get it done immediately, otherwise there are several stores in the city.
WhatsApp | Download WhatsApp on your phone before coming to Argentina. WhatsApp is the messaging app primarily used in South America. Some restaurants will even require you to make reservations by sending a WhatsApp message to them (this was very much true for us when we went to Mendoza to tour the wineries).
Weather
Argentina falls in the southern hemisphere, resulting with the seasons being opposite of the US or countries in the northern hemisphere. I travelled to Buenos Aires from March – June, and got to experience the tail end of summer, fall, and early winter. I think the transitional seasons, spring and autumn, are the perfect seasons to visit Buenos Aires as it’s not too cold or hot.
- Summer: December into April with average temperatures of 68-80F. I was surprised at how humid the city gets during the summer months (my hair was an unmanageable mess), and mosquitoes run rapid.
- Fall: Mid-April into June with average temperate of 58-70F. I was so happy to experience fall with the changing colors and cooling temperatures. It was beautiful but filled with a lot of rainy and cloudy days. This season didn’t last as long as I wanted it to.
- Winter: June into September with average temperatures of 45-55F. It got chilly but nothing like a New York winter. It does not snow in Buenos Aires, however, it rains often and frequently, and the winds make everything feel chillier.
- Spring: Late September into December with average temperatures of 55-70F. Spring brings life to city. The many parques are filled with blooming flowers again.
Local Tip: Bring a raincoat. When it rains, it rains!
Transportation
I love walking around a city, and Buenos Aires is best discovered through wandering down the many calles (or streets) and admiring the murals. Walking was my primary way of moving throughout the city. But if you’re staying here for an extended time period, knowing how to use the local buses and subte (the underground metro) is very beneficial. Learn more about the Sube on their website here.
Buying a Sube Card
Your first step to use local transportation is getting your hands on a Sube Card. Fun fact, the Sube card works in all Argentine cities and not just in Buenos Aires. Take your Sube card when you go to Mendoza, Bariloche, or other cities to hop on the buses or use local transportation. Buses and the Subte here are very cheap compared to the US.
How to Purchase a Sube Card | You can buy cards are local convenience stores – check this map here. Many stores will have a ‘Sube’ sign in the front indicating that they sell Sube cards – this is very important to make sure that the place sells authentic cards. They only accept cash or debit. I paid about ARS 2000 to get a Sube card from a local convenience store.
Adding Money to the Sube Card | You can add money to the Sube at kiosks located throughout the city. Additionally, at every Subte stop, there are employed-stations you can add money to your card. Note, they only take cash. There are no self-serve machines like in New York City or Washington D.C. I add about ARS 2000 every three weeks to my Sube card.
Ways to Get Around | Uber, Subte, Buses
Uber or Cabify | Uber is plenty, cheap, and very safe. I’ve never paid more than ARS 7000 for an Uber in Buenos Aires. If you’re only in Buenos Aires for a couple of days and don’t want to deal with local transportation, Uber is the way to go. Cabify is a ride sharing app used in Argentina that is very similar to Uber.
Subte | The underground metro is very clean and the trains come frequently. It is the best way to get around the city. There are six different lines that cover majority of the city. Using the Subte is very similar to the New York City subway or Washington D.C. metro.
Buses | The bus system in Buenos Aires is extensive and covers a lot of ground. The buses are a little bit more complicated than the Subte. When at a stop, it is necessary to raise your hand to indicate to the incoming driver that you want to get on (otherwise they may just zoom past you). When on the bus, you will need to tell the driver the stop that you want to get off at and they will charge you accordingly (it’s more expensive the longer the distance).
Biking or EcoBici | There are plenty of bike lanes in Buenos Aires that are clearly marked. If you are travelling through, you can make use of EcoBici, a free public bike sharing system that are scattered throughout the city. The bikes are available to use for one hour free of charge on the weekdays or for two hours free of charge on the weekend. You will need to register through their website or down the app. You’ll be prompted to create a profile and add a credit card.
Local Tip: Keep your eyes on your belongings when on any public transportation. Pickpocketing is very common and tourists are an easy target. Keep your bags in front of you and zippers closed. Otherwise, the local transportation is an easy way to get around the city.
Safety
Argentina’s current economic situation and high inflation has increased the inequality gap in the city, resulting with an increase of petty crime. The most common petty theft is your phone or expensive looking jewelry getting snatched from your hands or self. That being said, Argentina is a highly-developed and stable country. I have never felt unsafe in this city.
Safety Tips
- Do not wear expensive jewelry or watches. If you’ll be crying over losing it, do not wear it.
- iPhones and smartphones are expensive in Argentina and phone theft is probably the number crime for tourists. Do not leave your phone unoccupied at a public place (that means no leaving your phone on the table when you go to the bathroom at a café).
- Don’t carry large amounts of cash with you at once. Yes, cash is king in Buenos Aires, but if your wallet is easy to snatch, leave it at home.
- Stay vigilant on public transportation.
Argentinian people are friendly and helpful. I dropped money once without realizing it and a kind woman let me know that I dropped money from my bag. Even at cafes when I struggled to order food or ask questions, people have been graceful and nice.
Neighborhoods
Now onto the fun part. I stayed in Buenos Aires for over three months and had the chance to explore different neighborhoods. Buenos Aires boosts over 50 distinctive neighborhoods but as a tourist, I recommend to call one of the following neighborhoods homebase.
Palermo Soho or Palermo Hollywood | This is the top tourist destination. There are many restaurants, cafes, shops, and nightlife attractions here. I stayed in both these neighborhoods my entire time in Buenos Aires and absolutely loved it. I definitely heard a lot of English in the calles but I felt safe and comfortable walking around by myself, even at night. This tends to be one of the more expensive neighborhoods.
Recoleta | The Upper East Side of Buenos Aires. This is the posh area of the city where you’ll see older ladies in expensive coats walking around after a good afternoon gossip session. This neighborhood feels most like Paris. It’s stylish and proper. There are more high rises here than in Palermo but things are calmer and move slower here. It’s incredibly walkable and close to many tourist destinations.
San Telmo | This neighborhood is filled with cobble stoned streets and many antique shops. The streets are lined with picturesque mansions and notable cafes. There’s a faded grandeur to this area. It can get a little sketchy at night, but it’s very popular area, and as long as you’re not flashing a diamonds and gold. The is a feria (a fair) on Sundays which brings hundreds of people and stalls and can get quite busy.
Villa Crespo | The Williamsburg of Buenos Aires. If you want to stay next to Palermo, but want to quieter, edgier, and more artistic sister, choose Villa Crespo. This neighborhood is littered with cute cafes and small artisan shops that feel more local. There is a booming foodie scene and streets are filled with murals.
Popular Attractions and Experiences
There’s always something to do or see in Buenos Aires. The compiled list below showcases the most popular attractions that you can’t miss when traveling to the city.
Recoleta Cemetery | Popular for its mausoleums (graves above ground). This cemetery is architecturally stunning. Tour the cemetery with a guide to learn about the rich history of the cemetery and the souls that rest there.
Price: Entrance fee of about ARS 3500
Local Tip: I took this tour here for $10 and absolutely loved it.
Floralis Generica | This 20-foot-tall, 18-ton aluminum and steel structure is modelled after a flower. The petals open in the morning, close at night, and even follow the sun’s path, truly embodying a real flower.
Price: Free
Local Tip: Grab a blanket and some snacks and enjoy watching the sun set and the flora close.
Plaza Dorrego | Located in the San Telmo neighborhood, there are plenty of historic and notable bars and cafes surrounding the plaza. Go during Sundays when the Feria de San Telmo occurs and watch people tango throughout the day.
Price: Free
Local Tip: The Museum of Modern Art is located just a block away and is easily one of the best museums to visit in Buenos Aires.
Mercado de San Telmo | Also located in San Telmo neighborhood near Plaza Dorrego. This mercado has many souvenirs shops and food stalls.
Price: Free
Local Tip: Sundays can get very busy due to the feria, but they have one of the city’s best choripan.
La Boca | Stroll through the colorful streets of Caminito, ‘little path’ in Spanish. There are plenty of little souvenir shops to buy local art. In fact, you will only find artwork from local artists being sold here.
Price: Free
Local Tip: This is a working-class neighborhood. Although Caminito is very tourist friendly, stay alert and don’t wear flashy jewelry or clothing.
Puerto Madero + Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve | This is the largest green space in Buenos Aires and has a variety of animals to watch – take note all bird-lovers. It also has skateboarding and picnic areas to spend an afternoon at.
Price: Free
Local Tip: Rent a free bike and bike around the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve for the afternoon.
Food and Eating
Eating is almost always my favorite part about travelling. Being a vegetarian in a carnivore loving country is always a little nerve wrecking. But I ate good. I thought there was a growing vegetarian and vegan scene in Buenos Aires. Below are three top food
- Asado – Steak is part of the culture here. I won’t try to speak for how good the steak is, but there are tons of steakhouses in Buenos Aires. And then there’s asado, which is associated with both the meat, type of barbequing, and the social gathering. Argentinians barbeque the meat while they spend time together and enjoy each other’s company.
- Mate – Mate is stapled into the Argentine culture. It is a type of tea that taste similar to green tea (maybe a little more bitter). Mate time is very important. Many people will wake up early, relax with their mate before the day starts. You will see plenty of portenos holding their thermos and sipping on their mate (which is both the tea itself and the cup).
- Choripan – Is it a hotdog? Is it a sandwich? It is quite literally a chorizo (sausage in Spanish) stuffed within a pan (bread in Spanish) and usually includes a chimichurri spread. This dish is popular in Argentina and surrounding countries. You can find these at mercados or cafes.
